05 dodge cummins

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Further, the transmission is more than likely due for a refresh, torque converter and clutches at the minimum. Also, if the truck still has the factory fuel filter mounted lift pump, its probably ready to be replaced at this point.

Beyond there, more than likely the turbo probably has excessive shaft play and going to need to be replaced. Personally, the trucks are my preferred year range that are highly capable and reliable, but with a quarter million miles on it, there are absolutely items that are ready to fail. Lastly, I would presume the front end must have had some repairs to it, but if not, a gear box, tie rods, and ball joints are in your near future, as well.

Great write up! My stage 3 upgrades are lift pump and air intake. My stage 4 upgrades I think will be turbo and exhaust manifold. I was looking for info on CP3s to try and figure out fuel delivery requirements. The part about the FCA was what I needed to know. I also appreciated to part about the coolant bypass, that will be part of my stage 5 mods injectors, head studs and now coolant bypass. Thanks again, great read! Any responses appreciated. And thanks for the thorough response.

Also to note, well done on the upgraded intercooler. In regards to your question about the fuel pressure, you are correct that the FCA is responsible for controlling the output pressure of the CP3 after its turned into high pressure.

Plus, you have returns in place to return fuel. That said, even with an AirDog, all returns are necessary because there is simply no way to actually only deliver, under all circumstances, the exact amount of pressure. Hello Josh hope all is well with you and your family in these times, and thank you for this write up. Canada right above you so not far from you guys. I just purchased a Ram Laramie 5. It has , miles. I know this is a bit to ask but, I am only interested in reliability, longevity and fuel economy.

Now for the ask part. Could you please email me or list what upgrades, part exchanges etc that I should do for my specific goals. Historically, the From there, making sure you have the most common 3. It was the one and only year that Ram thought it would be a good idea to use an intercooler with plastic end tanks instead of metal…..

Especially if this is an early with the 5. What are the best modifications to help with the fuel rail issues? Hi there, thanks for the question. Most often, though, its due to a failed or failing pressure relief valve, which is located on the top of the rail. One method if yours is failing is to replace with a new relief valve. Great article Josh. I will bookmark this one for review from time to time. I recently purchased a RAM miles.

It was a 2 owner truck that has , miles on the clock and came with a stack of maintenance records. Review of the records indicate oil changes every 7, miles and receipts for a number of fuel filters but no mileage was indicated for their installation.

Your reply to one of the previous questions indicated I should expect the injectors to fail and need replacing. Does one have to change them all at one time or can you change them as they fail?

Is there a financial advantage to changing them all at once verse independently? Hi there, thanks for the question, and congratulations on the new-to-you truck. I personally use the Baldwin PF in my personal truck, shown here:. That said, normal symptoms would be some white smoke, especially at idle, and that it will turn over a few times before firing, especially when the engine and ambient air temperature is cold. If the injectors have never been replaced and its found you have one or two that are returning an excessive amount, you really should replace all of them as the balance rates between those and the original injectors will differ significantly.

Further, when replacing the injectors, its a VERY good idea to change out the injector connector tubes, which connect the injector lines on the outside of the head to the injectors themselves basically a horizontal sleeve. Further, the original connector tubes have been superseded to the same ones used in the 6.

We describe a lot of the fuel related issues of the Cummins in this blog, as well:. Hope this answers your questions, good luck, and if you have any other questions, please let us know. Now more so I need some information about my I bought the truck from a dealership back on November 5, with k miles on it. I now to date have , miles on the truck. Overall the truck has been a complete blessing compared to my 6. Can hear it plain as day with the windows down or outside the truck but I personally can hear it when inside the truck with windows up as well.

As soon as I put the truck into park tho, the noise stops for a quick seconds before it starts again. Did some research but tracking this sound down is literally like looking for a needle in a hay stack. I have done a tranny filter and fluid change on the tranny, I do my oil changes every k miles and do the fuel filters at the same time.

I have the Fass HD system on my truck currently as well. I have adjusted the valves intake to. I was told this sound could be anything from a leaking injector s to being loose torque converter bolts, could be a bent rod or even a harmonic balancer outta whack. I figured the most details and the best way I can explain it gives me the best chances for you to maybe be able to help me out on getting this noise figured out and hopefully resolved.

Buddy, Actually, thanks for the detailed description as that obviously helps diagnose an issue. Sure, you could have loose flexplate bolts, but its not as likely. Sure, you could have rod bearings going out and the sudden shift in RPM due to the change from Drive or Reverse to park causes the additional movement…. You could run the injector return test as described to give you a clue if that may be the issue. Good luck!

I consider new injectors preventative maintenance so good advise to look into them. Just want to throw out the CP3 idea. I have dealt with and cured most the cummins noises throughout the life of my When I read the question I was thinking CP3. You can pull the gear, bar the engine over, and reinstall gear to pin point the problem but it usually comes back.

Good luck, nice to see advice shared so readily. Take Care. Hello Josh, great write up thank you. I just purchased my first diesel truck. One owner, no rust, beauty of a beast, really stoked. It runs great but only thing is I know nothing about the service history. Wondering if you could either email me back a good strategy to start MY servicing or comment back your thoughts on what I should do. Also wondering about a fuel additive and when to add every fuel up?

Thank you, much appreciated. How cow, sounds like you found an absolute GEM! You definitely knew exactly what you were looking for based upon the description, nicely done. Purchasing a used truck can be difficult due to exactly what you describe, not having a good service history of the vehicle. You can presume that the truck has been adequately serviced transmission, axles, engine oil, etc.

Find a reputable local mechanic and have them go through everything on the truck, to include testing all of the oil, check u-joints, look for any metal material in the transmission pan, and change anything they see.

Its more expensive than conventional oil, but its good insurance honestly. Now, in terms of a good quality fuel additive, absolutely yes. I would personally recommend F-Bomb Diesel Additive, its what I run in my own truck and it works great for all of the reasons it should.

Check it out here:. Josh, great article and finding it was perfect timing. I just put in a new reman DFC engine into my I finally got every thing together and got it started after bleeding the fuel rail. It started running smooth then just died. Started checking for other leaks and found the Fuel Pressure relief valve was hot to the touch,. Thanks for taking the time to read the blog!

It definitely sounds like a fuel related issue if you were able to get it fired off, then died, and not surprising with a full engine replacement, honestly. Or the blown cp3 in Detroit. The first set of injectors in florida, second set 5 months later in Texas, 3rd set 2 weeks later at Home, 4th set in Lake Houghton MI, 5th set at home, about to get its 6th set and 3rd set of tubes, once again by a shop……. If so, what is it and have you monitored fuel rail pressure?

Are you running a pressure relief valve block off? Sorry, lots of questions but there can be numerous factors that could be leading to your unusually high failure rate. I have an 06 auto and issues are starting. My last oil change and regular filters etc i mentioned hearing an unusual tick. And byt thw time i returned i had to shut down just to take out of gear for fear my rpms would skyrocket. Ive called my dealer they think i should have it towed to them.

So im asking your thoughts. I have k do regular filters etc but never injectors. The ticking is typical of when the injectors begin to fail, symptomatic of an improper spray angle so not all of the fuel is able to atomize within the piston bowl.

Fortunately, Bosch original manufacturer of the injectors superseded the original design to a more robust unit that is even less likely to fail years ago. That should get me squared away for another k miles. Thank you. The quickest and easiest method is to hop under the truck and see if it has a catalytic converter. An early would not have a factory catalytic converter unless its a California specific model , and all Another step would be to check the engine tag on the valve cover.

If the rated horsepower is , then its an early , if its , then its a And finally, you can check the build date on the door jam. Hi Josh. I have a Noticed my Cp3 has a drip coming from the back side. Does this sound likely to you? Thank you for your time. But maybe to answer both possible questions, yes, there are o-rings on each.

For the seal between the gear pump and the CP3 housing, there is an o-ring that almost looks like three circles, but all one piece. In regards to the CP3 itself, there is an o-ring at the shaft itself. Hopefully its merely an o-ring to get you back on the road, but if its not, at k, if the pump has yet to be replaced, it may be in need to change it out.

Hey Josh, I really enjoyed reading your article. It was insightful and will be helpful with preventative maintenance on my trucks. With that being said, I have a question on one of my trucks. I have a mega cab Cummins with a 48re and k miles.

It used to get mpgs easily highway or city but over the years it has dropped to around 12 or 13 no matter the road conditions or speed I drive it. On top of that, the truck has started to smoke more. Even taking off from a stop sign under light throttle it will smoke black, unlike in the past.

It has stock sized tires, no tuner, transmission shifts fine just replaced the transducer and upgraded to a GM shift solenoid , pulls and drives great and idles smooth. The injectors have already been replaced at least once, could it be I need another set? Would this help with the fuel mileage and excess smoke? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again. The factory design of those injectors were upgraded long ago due to notorious failure rate issues with them. Bosch, the original manufacturer of the injectors does a great job of the reman process, or you can also opt for brand new from Bosch.

Lets first start with air flow. First and foremost, you mention the truck is basically stock. Do you have an aftermarket cold air intake? Either way, make sure your air filter is clean. We are going to mention a lot of specific products, and these are products that we prefer through our experience. There are, of course, many other options available that can get the job done, as well.

Bear in mind that even though Dodge says your truck is HP they are quoting flywheel horsepower, not rear wheel horsepower. On a dyno, the actual rear wheel horsepower for these trucks is about HP. Please don't get sucked into the trap of adding all of the manufacturer stated horsepower gains for the individual products together to estimate your horsepower.

This will only lead to disappointment! There is typically a substantial amount of overlap when combining products, but this is a necessary evil. Click on any of the below items to be directed to that product page for more information. As always, feel free to give us a call and we would be happy to assist!

If you are planning on sled pulling on a regular basis you would want to step up to the Valair 13" Dual Disc with steel inserts rated to HP.